It was a little cool, around 13C at
8AM. There were patches of blue in the overcast sky, but as the day
wore on and we moved west, the sky turned blue with not a cloud in
sight. The temperature rose to a maximum of 25 but was up to 10
degrees less in the shade. Some of the locals were caught out as one
girl at the pub for the evening meal, was quite badly sunburnt.
We headed from Midleton to Kenmare with
the first stop being Bantry. This meant avoiding Cork by means of a
number of those wonderful roundabouts and the 100/120kph circular
bypass road. We then headed along the N22 and turned South toward Bantry.
Things were great for a few minutes, until we got to a narrow stone
bridge. There was a bus going on the bridge as we approached so
there was no way we could fit as well. The little regional road was
like that for another 30+ km.
Eventually we got to Bantry and found
that there was a market in place. The town was crowded and the
streets were packed with cars and people. A car park was used for one area of
the market and also the central market place. All sorts of items
were on sale ranging from several guys selling tools and machinery
through to CDs, crepes, burgers and locally caught fish. People seem
to have come for miles as the CD seller had come from Tipperary,
which is about 80 km away.
We had been having a problem with our
GPS. For some reason, the battery is not holding its charge and
after it has reached 10%, it alarms and shuts down. Charging it up
the night before helps a little, but only delays the onset. When we
reached Kenmare, the GPS had given up the ghost. We decided not to
stay there as there was a Bikefest on and the town was loaded with
motor bikers. Without doubt, all the accommodation would be
stretched.
We therefore headed to the Ring of
Kerry, a circular route around the Kerry Peninsula. The problem being
that the road signs are random. Usually they disappear at the time of the
most critical decision. As a result, we missed going along the coast
and headed inland instead. We went through Moll's Gap and, just for
Ian, we took a number of photos of the Lady's View. The road
surface and condition was terrible. Not only was the road surface
very poor, but the overall road was up and down all over the place.
It certainly severely impacted my neck, even with a neck brace on.
Just a word or two about the roads. In
NZ, we just don't know how lucky we are with out roads. Sure, there
are some poor road surfaces, but generally they are reasonable.
There are good road signs and any corner that requires one to slow
slightly, has a sign on it where the Nanny State recommends a maximum
speed for the corner. There are picnic or pull over areas on most SH
roads especially where there is something worth looking at. It's
definitely not the same in Ireland. I can't recall seeing a speed
recommendations for any corner, but a couple have been speed
restricted for a mile or two before and after a rough bunch of
corners. Laybys are never where you want them, especially near some tourist view point.
Mind you, the Irish are far more
patient and polite than most Kiwi drivers, so perhaps we should pull
down all the speed notices for corners. The speedsters and impatient
would die and so would the drunken drivers. There would be a spike
in the road toll for a year or two, but after that it would drop to
less as the Kiwi driver became more considerate to other users on the
road. How's that for something a little off the wall?
We reached Killearny and headed South
West along the northern edge of the Ring of Kerry. We stopped off at
Red Fox pub near Glenbeigh to visit the Peat Bog Museum. This showed
how peat was extracted from the ground and some of the critters,
houses, tools etc that were used. In particular Lynette wanted to
see the bog ponies. These are ponies that are 10 – 12 hand high.
(A hand is five inches.) The ponies were used to carry baskets of
peat back from the bog. Like the Kaimanawa horses, the bog ponies almost died out but there is now a preservation society and the pony numbers are growing. There were also thatched huts as used by
those who extracted the peat. Inside you could smell the peat aroma.
It's something quite distinctive.
We stopped the night at Cahersiveen and
gave up trying to pronounce it. We had a great dinner a local pub
and walked up and down the town. There's lots of shops to let, so
business does not look to be too good.







By bypassing Cork, you would have missed the island of Cobh where my cousins were boat builders. Also historical interests with Titanic.
ReplyDeleteYou said "CD seller had come from Tipperary, which is about 80 km away." Well if you didn't know it by now, I shall tell you anyway "It's a long way to Tipperary".
What could be worse? sharing a hotel with bikers or sharing a hotel with gypsys - ay well you can let me know that answer in a few weeks.
Lady's View - thanks so much - Anne has now seen what she missed all those years ago!
Glenbeigh. When I was about 9 years old, we had two holidays in Glenbeigh. Wonderful memories for me.
Never been inside a "peat hut" but the smell of peat burning on a fire is distinctive. I shall take over some on my trip to Waiheke Island and will burn a small piece for you. Now THAT brings back memories of holidays in Ireland and also our bach in Ardamine on the east coast of Ireland. Whenever we had a fire there, it was fueled by peat.
Cahersiveen. I seem to think that my dad used Cahersiveen moss to clarify either his homemade wines or his beers. I will google that!
thanks again for the info and photographs.
Thank you for the stories. We have been away for few days so I am in catch up mode. Never been to Ireland but the scenery looks great. I was wondering about the blue sky, wait for England , it will surely turn a bit more grey....
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