On Friday, the day before
departure, Jim came down with a good head cold. Lots of Codral and
rest seemed to improve things. Saturday he stayed in bed quite a
while and then we left for the ferry. We just made the 6:15PM ferry
as we were using an old timetable which had departure at 6:30.
Still, we had plenty of time up our sleeves as the flight left near
midnight.
Air NZ's smart checkin
made life very easy. Jim had to smile at the Air NZ lady watching the
baggage being checked in. He reckoned she was at least ten years
older then him.
The Dreamliner Boeing 777
would not be on Jim's list of preferred airliners. Air NZ has
squeezed in the seats so that he had an inch to spare on his knees
when sitting upright, however when his seat and the others were
reclined, he had to assume a contorted Yoga position in order to sit
down. The aisle gap is so small that all passengers sitting in the
aisle seats are continually being bumped by traffic in the aisle.
It's particularly exciting when you have a cup of hot drink.
The flight was reasonable
and we were on time, but it took a while for the baggage to come off.
You certainly know you are
in Singapore when you walk to the taxi. 33C and about 95% humidity.
Not quite the “knock you over” temperatures of Hong Kong last
year.
We knew we had picked a
good hotel when the taxi driver didn't know where it was. We arrived
about 8AM and were allowed the use of the disabled toilet to sort
ourselves out and change. Then we left the baggage at the hotel and
had a coffee across the street. We wandered around the Bugi District
for a couple of hours. (This area used to be famous for its
transvestites.) We went to the Hotel Bencoolen, where we had stayed
in 1978, but while it was the same name the building was new. We
did find a building that looked like the hotel we stayed in down the
street and are quite sure this is where we had stayed.
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| The old Bencoolen Hotel that we stayed in, in 1978 |
Our wanderings around town
took us to a few malls and market areas. Lynette tried the toilets
in one of the malls and was excited to pay 20c for the opportunity to
stand over a two footer and hole.
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| A two footer. |
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| Street vendor selling mushrooms etc |
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A Chinese temple
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| One of the many gods that are around. |
Back at the hotel, the
boys had sorted out the room and taken our baggage up. It's very
cosy, just 12' by 12', or in Ian's terms 3.5 metres by 3-5 metres.
That gives you a double bed, shower, toilet, wash basin and a few
square feet in which to stand up. Ideal for our needs. |
31 May
After another shower (yes,
you need at least three per day), we sat in the foyer, waiting for
Choy and Yat Keng and when they arrived, they looked very similar to
when we last met them 13 years ago. Haven't changed much at all. We
chatted for a while and then went down the street 100 yards to a
french restaurant and met Christina.
Singapore almost deserves
its own book. Jim has been coming here since 1980, initially for
training and then business. In those days he worked for the world
wide Racal company, which was a large multinational electronics
company with about 200subsidiary companies. It had many companies
and set up a joint venture mobile phone company called Racal
Vodafone, which it later sold off. Jim worked for the data
communications (networking) company called Racal-Milgo and Choy
worked for Racal Singapore, a local company that handled all Racal's
products and services. Racal made military radios and was quite
strong in the South East Asian market. Christina worked for Racal
Singapore as the accountant keeping the beans in line. Yat Keng,
Choy's wife has always worked for one of the universities as a lab
technician and and is now a lab technologist. Still the same work by
the sound of things. After leaving Racal, Choy ended up working for
MCI Sprint, a major communications company, and while there over 20
years, the company's name changed a number of times but the function
and people remained. Choy was a great electronics engineer who like
Jim, moved into Project and then Program Management. He was made
redundant at the end of last year and has been enjoying being a kept
man as Yet Keng brings in the money.
Singapore is a fantastic
country to visit. It's extremely safe, clean and continuously
changing. It's also a major hub. When Jim was travelling as the
Technical Services Manager for Racal-Milgo, the Florida company, he
used to stay here, on and off, for up to a month, and visit the other
countries in the region. He always used to smile as the airplanes
approached Singapore, they would announce that there were severe
penalties for drug trafficing in Singapore and that the minimum
sentence was Death. There was never a mention of the maximum
sentence. It was quite surprising to hear that today the Police had
shot three people and killed one at at security conference, when the
car failed to stop. Inside the car they found some drugs, so it
looks like the drug policy hasn't worked out.
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The older colonial style buildings in some areas of Singapore.
|
After lunch, Choy drove us
around the block to a cafe that just serves desert and their
specialty is shaved ice fruit deserts. The fruit used is tropical
such as Mango, Honey Dew Melon and even Durian, the favoured Asian
fruit. They were plentiful, cooling and very nice. Perhaps it's a
good time to discuss eating styles.
In NZ, we eat at
particular times of the day and then race around burning up energy at
other times. In Singapore it's quite different. People eat smaller
meals and more often throughout the day. Jim calls it “continuous
grazing” and used to comment on Choy's ten or more mini-meals
during the day. Choy says he doesn't eat as much these days but
still probably has about seven sit down small meals in a day. Food
and drink can be quite cheap. We had Copio (black coffee with about
an inch of sweetened condensed milk in the bottom of the cup) for $2
in a larger street cafe, about half the price in NZ. In a hawker
centre, where there was lots of competition, an iced version of the
same thing was less than a dollar. (The Singapore and NZ Dollars are
about equal in value.)
After the desert, we left
Christina and went to Choy and Yat Keng's house. Housing in
Singapore is very expensive and Choy and Yat Keng have worked hard to
get where they are today. Because they could not get married until
they had somewhere to live, they were engaged for seven years so that
they could get their name on the government housing list for an
apartment, and then only after one had become available did they get
married. That is a long engagement. It's nowhere near as bad today
but now the major thing holding young people back is the deposit
required to get the first apartment, so many people get married and
still live with one set of parents.
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| Choy and Yat Keng's house. |
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| Choy and his Chinese fiddle |
Their earlier apartments
were quite a way from the city and well up the apartment tower.
Parking was always a problem too. Jim can remember Choy having to go
to the City offices to buy parking coupons to display in his car
window outside his apartment block. Choy had to go and get a new set
of coupons every month. That same coupon system is used today,
especially for street parking. You buy a stack of coupons and push
out the holes that represent the time when you arrive at a parking
space, and depending upon the colour of the coupon, you must depart
before the coupon expires. The standard time seems to be 90 minutes,
and the ticket inspectors work seven days a week. There's also an
electronic system for parking in parking buildings and collecting
tolls on the roads that hits your cash card regularly. Tolls and
parking fees seem quite reasonable in price, but they were
everywhere, so you would notice their cost.
Choy and Yat Keng jumped
off the apartment ladder about 20 years ago and invested in a house
about halfway between the airport and city. It's a spacious (2,700
square feet) multistorey house that's situated on about 1,000 square
feet of land area. By comparison, our single storey house is about
1,100 square feet and our half acre land is close to 20,000 square
feet. Value-wise, their Singapore property is three to four times
the value of ours. They were very smart to invest when they did and
live in a very nice house in a quiet street.
Besides being skilled at
his job Choy is quite artistic. He has been making Origami items for
years, and we have one of his framed ones on our wall dated around
1988. He also plays a Chinese musical instrument like a drum/fiddle
with a single string and belongs to an orchestra.
Cars are very expensive in
Singapore. There are higher road taxes than NZ, the cost of purchase
is much higher, probably two to three times NZ costs but fuel costs
are very close. You'll see cars with red number plates. These are
weekend only cars. They are only allowed on the roads after 7:30PM
during the week, after 10:30AM on Saturday and all day Sunday. Not
sure it would catch on in NZ. Despite the higher costs, you see
sports cars regularly and we saw new Ferraris and Lamborghinis.
(Lambos for short). Choy drives a ten year old Toyota that is is
good condition and well decorated with his origami and stickers on
the window. Driving here is extremely courteous with people letting
others in all the time, definitely not like in NZ.
They then drove us out to
see the newly developed Marina area. Development is very noticeable
in Singapore. When we first came here, there was bare open land on
the way to the airport. Now it's covered in manicured trees and
apartment buildings. Buildings are going up and coming down and the
skyline looks like an architects playground, where each architect is
trying to outdo the previous one.
The marina area used to be
the old sea waterfront and Singapore river junction. Jim often
walked along here looking at the boats and old style housing. The
river was pretty sad. It was black, dirty and you could almost walk
across it. You can still recognise some of the buildings, but today
the water is so clean that you wouldn't believe the story of walking
across the river. They reclaimed a whole area of land, built new
buildings and cleaned up the river so much that it is now a sparkling
tourist attraction.
We came across a large
number of people flying kites. There was plenty of wind but very
little space for parking and Jim left his zoom lens behind so Lynette
took most of the photos. The kites were large and small and flying
very high, over 300 metres. One presumes it was a no-fly area for
planes.
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Kites
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| A multikite, kite Very large |
Then we went to the Marina
parkland or gardens and met Christina again. The gardens were laid
out to represent a number of old style villages that were in
Singapore before the development took over. Buildings represented
the older kampong or village style of houses and there are lots of
displays which are changed regularly. |
 |
| Yat Keng and Christina |
Singapore is a bit of a
concrete jungle and you know it when you come to the gardens. The
“trees” are concrete pillars, like those used to support a
motorway, and there are plastic “branches” coming out. The
plants that are growing up the trees are real and the trees are
festooned with light bulbs. When it's dark there is a 15 minute
sound and light display which is well worth viewing.
Then it was across the
Marina to the city side to see the sights from there and have dinner. We were beginning to to flag by this stage as it was well
after midnight (NZ time) and we didn't get that much sleep on the
plane. Jim's throat was a little tender, mainly from the talking.
We got back to the hotel
around 2AM NZ time and had our third shower of the day. It was a
fantastic day catching up and seeing what has changed.
The photos were a challenge, coming from two cameras. We'll improve things as we go along, I, sure
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| Yat Keng and Choy |
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| Large "trees" in the Marina garden |
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| This is a group of three individual hotels that are topped with a stainless steel like curved boat. The boat or liner has a restaurant, viewing platform and swimming pool |
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| One of the fountains in the Marina garden s |
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| One of the illuminated trees |
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| Looking across to the new marina complex from the old Collyer Quay |